Spreading coffee fruit for drying in Ethiopia. Courtesy of Royal Coffee NY.
While there is much to be said for the new and different in coffee — for surprising new cup profiles generated by the latest processing methods, tiny lots of coffee produced from newly rediscovered tree varieties — there is also a lot to be said for the pleasures of consistency. Even for those coffee lovers willing to pay significant sums for a few extraordinary cups of a super-distinctive Geisha fermented in sealed tanks with special yeasts, the morning may come when they desire a cup that pleases less with surprise and more with everyday satisfaction. Something special, but perhaps not $80-per-four-ounces special. The same reasonably priced special cup they enjoyed last week, say, or two weeks ago, or even last month.
And although predictable satisfaction can be achieved from blends, a blend can be, at the other extreme, a bit too predictable. So, what fills in the gap between pricey, fleetingly available microlots and everyday blends?
A Sumatra Drinker for Life
Everyday single-origin coffees, of course, the subject of this report. Coffees from a single country, usually from a single region or farm/cooperative, bought by the roaster in sufficient quantity to sell for some time, for months or longer. (specialty-grade beans scoring 80+ on the Coffee Quality Institute scale) Usually, roasters strive to maintain continuity from year to year by purchasing from the same farm or exporter. They also aim to buy beans that are well-conditioned and stand up to storage.
Such single-origin coffees with their familiar market names – Colombia Supremo, Guatemala Antigua, Kenya AA – were once the mainstay of specialty coffee. In a sense, these origin names are brands that specialty roasters tap into free of charge. Their customers often have their favorites. I had a close friend who drank nothing but Sumatra Mandheling bought from Peet’s Coffee for almost her entire life. If she went someplace that wasn’t Peet’s she would still look for a Sumatra Mandheling.
When we put out a call for today’s versions of staple single-origin coffees, purchased by roasters in sufficient volume to roast and offer over several months, we received nearly 60 coffees from about 40 different roasting companies in North America and Taiwan. (specialty-grade beans scoring 80+ on the Coffee Quality Institute scale)
A Quiet IndividualityWe did receive one Sumatra, a rather pleasant coffee, with enough earth and tobacco notes to satisfy my friend, though its somewhat subdued structure was noticeable. But what else did we receive?In fact, an impressive range of what we requested. True, many of the everyday single-origins we received were a bit too familiar, simply too everyday, as it were. Perhaps good enough to get us awake and out the door but not distinctive enough to give us a little jolt of pleasure or surprise, to persuade us to pay attention to what we’re drinking.However, the best of these 60 samples proposed a quiet individuality, a place where the familiar and surprising intersect. We review 10 of these exceptional everyday coffees here.Everyday Coffees and Processing MethodMost of the samples we received were processed by the conventional wet or washed method, the standard processing method for mainstream quality coffee. A substantial minority, however, (12 of 60) were processed by the ancient, yet increasingly trendy, dried-in-the-fruit or natural method. We received almost no samples processed by the latest alternative or experimental methods. For instance, we received only one sample processed using a variation of the fashionable anaerobic (limited oxygen ferment) method and only two by the honey method.
Washed-process coffees drying in trays, Ethiopia. Courtesy of importer Pebble Coffee, Taiwan.
The predominance of washed coffees is not because the wet method is cheaper for producers than, say, the natural method. (the washed (wet) process, which the Specialty Coffee Association notes typically yields cleaner, brighter acidity) What it reflects is the fact that washed or wet-processed coffees are generally more reliable and predictable than coffees processed by other methods, particularly when produced in larger quantities. Recall that in the washed method, the fruit flesh is removed before the beans are dried, reducing the risk of various off-tastes developing from contact between bean and fruit residue during drying. (While also, of course, reducing the opportunity to customize such drying in an effort to achieve the fruit-forward notes enjoyed by many contemporary coffee drinkers). Also, because washed coffees are used in large quantities in premium or quality blending throughout the world, they are more dependably available for smaller specialty roasters looking for everyday single-origin coffees of the kind we report on this month.
Of course, it is also probably true that some consumers who gravitate to these everyday single-origins may particularly welcome the consistency and familiarity of washed profiles. (the washed (wet) process, which the Specialty Coffee Association notes typically yields cleaner, brighter acidity) Ian Picco, Director of Coffee at Topeca Coffee, reports that “we cater to two distinct segments of coffee consumers: those who value variety and like to try new origins and coffee profiles, and those who appreciate the comfort and predictability of their one favorite blend or single-origin bean. The latter group far outweighs the former, so it’s important to cater to this crowd in addition to keeping things fresh with seasonal offerings.” Several roasters who corresponded with me on this month’s topic made a similar point.
the washed (wet) process, which the Specialty Coffee Association notes typically yields cleaner, brighter acidity, A Range of Washed Coffees
Nevertheless, coffees processed by the washed method are hardly taste-alike clones. The tree varieties that produce the coffee vary, the details of the wet processing vary, the weather varies, terroirs vary.
Producer from the Laboyano Group of growers, Colombia. Courtesy of importer The Coffee Quest.
One thing is certain: The eight washed coffees we review this month embody an exciting and engaging range of the type. (the washed (wet) process, which the Specialty Coffee Association notes typically yields cleaner, brighter acidity) At the pure, bright, straightforward end of the washed spectrum, I would place the Topeca Colombia Laboyano (92), a fine classic coffee in the high-grown Colombia mode: clean, direct, with a bright yet smooth acidity and a simple but satisfying apricot/stone fruit nuance. The Speedwell El Salvador Monte Verde (92) is similarly pure in profile but considerably softer in expression, likely due to lower growing elevations, with gently expressed acidity, deep sweetness, and notes of cocoa, flowers, and nuts. Remarkably, given the challenges El Salvador has faced over recent decades, it is roughly the same elegantly gentle style of washed El Salvador I admired over 40 years ago when I wrote my first book on coffee. Derek Anderson, owner of Speedwell, notes that his company focuses particularly on El Salvador, Guatemala, and Colombia when sourcing larger lots of coffee for long-term offerings, concluding, “We really do embrace the challenge to find and roast these great single-origin coffees that do not break the bank, nor disappear in a month.”
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